When choosing the builder for your custom home, you should interview potential builder candidates. It is important that there is a good relationship between you and the builder. Focusing on key questions will help you make the right choice.
The time spent building a new construction home varies greatly. It will depend upon the size and complexity of the home, permitting time line, lot topography, degree of customization, availability of materials and subcontractors, and the weather. The builder will be able to give you an estimate based upon past experience with other similar homes. Building stages in new construction are grouped into definite categories. Your involvement at each stage depends on where the home falls in the New Home Spectrum and at what stage the home is in when you enter into a contract. The preliminary stage focuses on lot choice, lot reservation, financing, choosing a floor plan (or designing custom plans), selecting upgrades (or deciding on custom specifications), negotiating a price, and signing a final contract. No actual construction can begin before these items are completed. If the home is close to spec on the spectrum, this stage can be very short. If the home is to the custom end of the spectrum, this stage takes more time. The contract-to-release stage is next. During this time, the builder will secure building permits, gather bids for septic and well if necessary, and pay utility tap fees. This period can be prolonged depending on the bureaucratic process in place within each municipality that issues a building permit. If the builder is not using a standard plan, an architect will draw up a final set of plans and specifications. These will be used by subcontractors during construction. The last stage before construction will be final buyer approval of the project. You will sign off on the final plans and specifications and decide on lot placement for the home. If this is a spec home, these decisions may already be made. If this is a custom, then your input will be needed.
Here's a collection of natural cleaning formulas, MOST are safe and nontoxic, with a few exceptions which are clearly noted. Use the ingredients listed below when making your own alternative cleaners, most are inexpensive and you probably already have many of them in your kitchen cupboards. All can be found at your local supermarket, natural food store or drugstore. Used individually or combined, these cleaners are safe, effective and cost-efficient.
There are many ways to finance a remodeling project. If you have equity in your home, a good credit rating, and steady income, you can refinance your mortgage and borrow a percentage of the equity to cover remodeling costs. Refinancing is a good option if you can get a mortgage interest rate at least two percentage points below your current home loan rate. Other options include a second mortgage, a home equity loan, or an unsecured loan. Less popular options: margin loans, which are taken against securities you own, and loans from retirement plans, life insurance policies and credit cards.
Yes. Two very popular programs offered by the Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) include the Title 1 Home Improvement Loan and the Section 203(k) Program. In the first program, HUD insures the loan up to $25,000 for a single-family house to cover alterations, repairs, and site improvements. The latter program, which also insures mortgage loans, is HUD’s primary program for the rehabilitation and repair of single-family homes. Loans are also available from the Department of Veteran Affairs to buy, build, or improve a home, as well as refinance an existing loan at interest rates that are usually lower than that on conventional loans. The Rural Housing Repair and Rehabilitation Loan program, funded by the Agriculture Department, offers low-rate loans to low-income rural residents who own and occupy a home in need of repairs. Funds are also available to improve or modernize a home or to remove health and safety hazards. The federal government isn’t alone in its efforts to provide assistance. Local and state governments offer special home improvement programs. Contact your governor or mayor’s office for more details.
Begin by focusing on those small cracks and crevices around doors and windows. According to Lowe’s, a 1/8″ space between a standard exterior door and its threshold is equivalent to a two square inch hole in the wall. Close those gaps to save up to 15% in heating and cooling costs and also reduce the demand on your heating and cooling system. Other energy efficient steps: lower your water heater’s thermostat setting; blanket or insulate the water heater to reduce the amount of heat lost by the unit, particularly if it is located in an unheated area; insulate water pipes, at least the hot water pipes to prevent heat lost that can cause your water heater to work harder; change furnace filters to prevent reduced airflow through the heating/cooling system and overheating that can lead to premature compressor damage in the A/C systems; and install water-saving shower heads.
Yes, at least for a limited time. Congress made it a little easier to upgrade your windows while reducing your taxes. The Energy Policy Act of 2005 offers consumers a tax credit for replacing old appliances and home products with energy efficient models. The tax credit is up to $200 with the purchase of qualified doors, windows, and skylights. Look for the ENERGY STAR label. The Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency developed the designation for products meeting certain performance criteria. The tax credit is good for purchases made in 2006 or 2007 but does not include installation costs.
Yes, but only after you have sold your home. According to the IRS, home improvements add to the basis, or value, of your home. A tax-acceptable improvement is defined as one that adds value to your home, “considerably” prolongs your home’s useful life, or adapts your house to new uses. Examples include installing new plumbing or wiring or adding a bathroom. If the work done on the home is purely for maintenance, the cost cannot be deducted and generally cannot be added to the basis, or value, of your home. However, repairs done as part of an extensive remodeling or restoration of your home are considered improvements and therefore pass the deductible test.
The direction in which you build can make all the difference. Experts say building up is normally less expensive than building out on the ground level. Adding an expensive wing or addition requires a new foundation. It is less costly to extend plumbing and other mechanical systems upward, as opposed to installing new ones. So using the “air rights” over your house may be your best bet.
RISMEDIA, Feb. 6, 2008-(MCT)-Wenge, it’s been good to know you. Sunken Jacuzzis, we had some good times. Blue and brown, I can’t believe it’s over. But after a couple of years of same-old, same-old on the home-front, winds of change are blowing in. Some are driven by fashion, others by economic conditions and lifestyle shifts.
2008 will see waves of mainstream homeowners going green to save green, according to Ann Mack, director of trend spotting at JWT, a New York advertising firm. What Mack describes as a desire for “Prius homes” is being driven in part by financial incentives.
“Major banks are offering energy-efficient mortgages for homeowners,” Mack said. Some changes are product-based (installing solar panels), while others are behavioral (holding out longer in summer before turning on the AC).
The way we interact with technology will significantly alter interior landscapes this year, experts say. In November, The Wall Street Journal published a story called “Au Revoir, Armoire,” documenting the large-scale dumping of clunky TV closets in the new flat-panel era.
Michelle Lamb predicted the demise of the armoire in her trendspotting blog (michellelamb.typepad.com) nearly three years before the WSJ article was published. She’s already calling the next piece of furniture that will become obsolete: “Desks. We don’t need them, now that laptops are replacing PCs.” You read it here first.
Lamb, chairman of Minneapolis-based Marketing Directions, says this is the year we say goodbye to dark, Pottery Barn wood stains.
“There are two things going on: Deep, dark wenge had a long run-it’s time to move on. The other thing has to do with how we perceive wood and use it in decorating,” she said.
Homeowners are looking for dramatic graining and patterning highlighted by lighter, natural finishes.
Also on its way out in `08: the powerhouse blue-and-brown color scheme. What will take its place? “Yellow and gray with white as a foil,” she said. (Martha Stewart is already there, as evidenced by the cover of her January Living magazine.) For more adventurous tastes, Lamb predicts layered blues, moving into purples, will be big, as will the purple-and-red combination.
In the bath, homeowners are walking away from jetted tubs and into big, open showers, says Tony Shapiro, sales manager at Dorfman Plumbing Supply in Kansas City, Mo. Hard-core bathers are sliding into overflow tubs, whose tub-within-a-tub design allows them to fully immerse with no water sloshing onto the floor.
The surging popularity of ultra-low-flush toilets is driven by customers interested in green building and remodeling, Shapiro says. But one trend, he just can’t explain. “We’re selling a lot more square faucets lately. I have no idea why.” Trendoids, take note.
In kitchens, the cold industrial look is out, says Geri Higgins, owner of Portfolio Kitchen and Home in Kansas City. “The kitchen area is becoming less kitchen-looking and more furniture-like,” Higgins said.
Compartmentalized sinks are rapidly being eighty-sixed in favor of a single large basin. The only question is, what took so long? “You used to need a place to soak the silverware, but today that’s totally not necessary,” Higgins said.
In furniture, postmodernism, which burst onto the scene in the `70s with the shockingly playful Pompidou Center in Paris, is back in a big way. Original vintage pieces from the Memphis group founded by Ettore Sottsass, famous for their quirky forms, multiple colors and whimsical flourishes, are commanding record prices on both coasts and in Chicago, says Rod Parks, owner of Retro Inferno in Kansas City.
Lighthearted postmodern dinnerware designs and graphics in vibrant colors are on the rise as well.
Interior designer Ben Sundermeier, owner of High Cotton Home Furnishings in Kansas City, says interiors are getting fresher, less fussy. “The things we see coming are more natural, a little bit of green. … We just uncrated some lamps that have almost a raw wood finish and beautiful natural paper shades,” Sundermeier said.
“In wall coverings, it’s back to grass cloth, back to organic textures like raffia or handmade paper,” he said.
Sundermeier says Benjamin Moore’s environmentally friendly paints are at the top of his “In” list for `08. “They have beautiful, surprising color rendition,” he said.
What trend is Sundermeier happy to see go? “Faux painting,” he said.
Kitchen
Old World cabinetry in wood or painted finishes that look like furniture make the kitchen seem more like the rest of the house.
Copper and brass fixtures and hardware offer a warm respite from cold stainless steel and brushed nickel.
Big single sinks are supplanting divided styles.
Natural cleaning products and hand soap in fruit and herb scents go better with cooking smells than floral or antiseptic scents.
Source: Geri Higgins, Portfolio Kitchen and Home
Color
Blue is Pantone’s color of the year (a medium blue tinged with iris) and a force in kitchens (clear French blue and cobalt).
Yellow will become big in interiors for the first time since the `70s, first as an accent, then as a dominant color.
Light wood stains will push out “Pottery Barn” dark stains; hints of unstained, “raw” finishes will appear.
Source: Michelle Lamb
Bath
Hands-free faucets, activated by motion sensors, provide the efficiency and hygiene of public restrooms.
Big walk-in showers are displacing oversized jetted tubs.
Stacked stone is the style in tile for the new year.
Stone tubs are the new status statement, if money is no object.
Source: Tony Shapiro, Dorfman Plumbing
Décor
Postmodern furnishings with their unexpected forms and exuberant colors are winning over some designers and home dwellers who rejected the look in the `80s.
Primitive patterns and abstracted botanical motifs are coming on strong in fabrics and tableware.
Hidden compartments will be built into chairs, ottomans, tables and sectionals to keep personal electronic devices close at hand yet out of sight.
Grass cloth: It’s back, but with finer texture and in more colors than before.
Sources: Ben Sundermeier, High Cotton; Michelle Lamb
Patio
Oversized chaises and chairs are getting ever bigger and cushier.
Formal-looking dining sets blur the difference between indoors and out; chairs have seat and back cushions.
Source: Jackie Hirschhaut, American Home Furnishings Alliance
Dream Home
Hold the fourth garage? The uniquely American obsession with supersized homes, spawned by the real estate boom of five to 10 years ago, is at a crossroads. When home values were increasing 15% a year or more, homes became short-term possessions for many. Trading up to ever-larger digs every few years became a habit, much like always driving late-model cars.
Newsweek real estate correspondent and author Daniel McGinn isn’t speculating on whether the national preoccupation with square footage and “must-have” amenities will change as a result of the real estate bust in some cities, but he notes it will be “interesting” to see what people do with homes they never intended to live in long enough to remodel but find themselves forced to stay in for the foreseeable future.
© 2008, The Kansas City Star.
Distributed by McClatchy-Tribune Information Services.
RISMEDIA, April 8, 2008-(MCT)-You didn’t bring the outdoor furniture inside for the winter, or even cover it. Now, your chairs and patio table, even the umbrella, look plug ugly. No need to panic, though. Just give them a good cleaning, maybe even new paint, and they’ll look fresh as spring.
Whither the wicker? To clean woven furniture, you’ll need to get into and around those intricate weaves. And that requires a variety of brushes-a new, rather than used, toothbrush (stiffer bristles); a small paintbrush with bristles cut down by half, to make them stiffer but not sharper; and a bristle brush with medium bristles. Some experts recommend sharpening a dowel to pick out bits of dirt and debris, but the best tools are already sharpened-the wooden skewers used to make shish kabob.
After you’ve gotten the gunk and grime out of the weaves, vacuum a wicker piece thoroughly. Then wash using minimum amounts of a solution of two tablespoons of ammonia to two gallons of water. Clean in sections from top to bottom, then dry the wicker quickly to prevent it from warping. Lay the piece on a clean canvas drop cloth; tip it so the tighter weaves are on top and the looser on the bottom, so the moisture runs down and away quickly. Keep the weaves straight, so they don’t shrink.
If mere cleaning isn’t enough, sand and repaint (follow the manufacturer’s suggestions). Depending on the piece, spray paint may give better coverage in faster time.
Attend to the aluminum: For regular aluminum chairs, grab a plastic scrub brush and dishwashing detergent at full strength and then scrub, scrub, scrub. Rinse thoroughly, then let dry.
For coated-aluminum pieces, experts also recommend full-strength dishwashing detergent, using a sponge instead. Rinse completely, dry with a soft cloth, and then rub on car wax to polish, avoiding the fabric. If you get wax on the fabric, clean it quickly. Buff the metal after it dries.
Ponder the plastic: Take a look at your old plastic furniture. Is it worth keeping another year? If the chairs cost $2 each 10 years ago, you can find sturdier and nicer ones for about the same price today. But if you opt to keep them, wash the pieces with three tablespoons of powdered laundry detergent (or oxygenated bleach such as OxyClean) mixed in a gallon of warm water. A scrub brush will work, but avoid stiff bristles, which can scratch or gouge the plastic surface. Let the solution soak in for a few minutes. Rinse thoroughly, then dry.
Cleanse the cushions: Check the label for the manufacturer’s suggestions. If cushions or seat webbing are washable, use warm, soapy water or a foam cleaner. Apply with a sponge, rinse and dry quickly.
Repair the rust: Wrought-iron furniture tends to rust, which is why it should always be covered if left outside in winter. If corrosion has already begun, use a wire brush on the metal lightly, to remove the rust but not the paint. Naval jelly, available at home centers and hardware stores, also can dissolve rust; some products become a primer that lets you apply protective paint in 24 hours. Rust stains can be removed with fine steel wool dipped in kerosene. Wear protective gloves and safety glasses and apply in the open, away from fire. To get into the joints, disassemble the furniture.
Mind the mildew: Got a mildewed patio umbrella? Open it and lay it on its side, then clean with oxygenated bleach in warm water-though you should check the manufacturer’s care suggestions (chlorine bleach will fade acrylics). Use a soft-bristle brush on one section at a time; rinse with clean water and let dry.
Distributed by McClatchy-Tribune Information Services.
For homeowners who are selling their house and don't have the time, tools, or experience to complete a home repair or renovation project on their own, they have to hire a professional. A contractor is an independent expert or company who can design, install, repair, replace, remove, or build parts of or parts within a house. Because these services are done by independent contractors and companies, many do not know how to find a reliable professional.
Not sure you have the time to investigate the background of the general contractor and/or subcontractor? Consider this: In most states complaints filed by homeowners against contractors make up one of the largest -- if not the largest -- category of consumer complaints filed with the state attorney general’s office. In other words, a surprising number of people end up very unhappy with the contractors they hire.
A million things can go wrong -- from poor workmanship to simply not finishing the job. Sometimes there is actual fraud, such as a contractor taking part of the money for a project up front and never returning. Sometimes the problems are less obvious, such as a contractor using substandard materials or neglecting to comply with local building regulations, both of which can lower the resale value of your home even if you decide to live with the substandard workmanship or materials.
However, it's also true that there are plenty of highly skilled, reliable, trustworthy contractors out there. And as a homeowner about to undertake a remodeling project, it’s up to you to find one of the good ones.
There are 3 main ways to find a contractor for an upcoming home improvement or repair project:
Personal Referrals
Homeowners should talk to family, friends, and co-workers about reliable companies. It's a great way to get a personal testimonial from a trusted source. Also, keep an eye out for neighbors’ projects that seem to be going well.
Advantages of personal referrals:
Disadvantages of personal referrals:
Phone Books/Directories
Homeowners can use a local directory to look up a contractor. Yellow pages and white pages have anything from a basic listing, which has the company name and phone number, to a full-page advertisement, which lists the company's details and full range of services.
Advantages of phone book:
Disadvantages of phone book:
Online Referrals
For online referrerals, check with professional organizations such as the National Association of the Remodeling Industry, which has its own certification process for contractors.
There are also host of online companies that provide contractor referral services. Homeowners can post their project on these Web sites and let a set number of contractors contact them. It's usually a free service for the homeowner. One excellent site to find local contractors, though be sure to look into references and liabilities, is Craigslist - this is one of many.
Advantages of online referral services:
Disadvantages of online referral services:
Choosing the Right Contractor for You
However you choose to find a contractor, please make sure you get several bids from several companies. And be aware that bids from different contractors may not compare apples with apples. For instance, Plumber Jones’ bid to redo your bathroom may be attractively low compared to Plumber Smith’s. But what you may not realize till the end is that Plumber Jones’ idea of bathroom fixtures are the cheapest ones he can find at the home improvement center, whereas Plumber Smith uses elegant fixtures from an upscale supplier. Always be sure you understand what kind of materials will be used even if it means asking a lot of questions. Any contractor who won’t take the time to answer your questions gets crossed off your list.
And now a word about money: NEVER select a contractor based solely on money. The lowest bidder may sometimes be a good choice. But the old adage that you get what pay for is especially true in the construction industry. Contractors who do high-quality work hire high-quality subs and, because they’re experienced and skilled, they charge more. They are also less likely to cut corners by using shoddy materials or slap dash construction techniques. Contractors can charge by the job or by time and materials according to the project’s overall budget. If a contractor comes in with an especially low bid ask him how he figured the numbers. Does he pay his people a lot less than the competition? That’s a red flag that his workers are inexperienced. Does he get a “good deal” on materials? Where? Why? All busy contractors get some kind of discount at the suppliers they regularly buy from. So if a contractor with a low bid says he gets a super-low price on materials, they are very possibly sub-standard in some way.
You should also select a contractor who is not only skilled and reliable but who is someone you can get along with. You may be on the phone with your contractor several times a day. You will be discussing money, how much of it you have, and what you want to do with it. You may have to work through disagreements over details. A contractor with lousy communication skills or someone who simply rubs you the wrong way is not the guy for you no matter how much your neighbor liked him.
Ready to put a little “sweat equity” into your home? Don’t sweat it. It doesn’t mean you actually have to do your entire remodel yourself. After all, you’re not a professional contractor, right? That’s why you’re hiring a pro. But if you’re willing to roll up your sleeves and get a little dirty you can save yourself some money while adding to the value of your home.
Do It Yourself
It is possible to cut the costs of a remodel by doing your own demolition, including such chores as tearing out carpet, removing lighting and plumbing fixtures, and clearing the kitchen of old appliances. You can also cut down on costs by doing the painting yourself and the clean up. How much you’ll save by doing these things yourself depends on many factors, including the size of your remodel. It’s possible to save $1,000 or more on a major kitchen remodel by doing some of the demolition yourself. And if you’re good at painting, and the project is sizable, you can save possibly several thousand dollars or more by painting yourself. Don’t mind doing major clean up? Again, if you do it you could save $500 to several thousand dollars.
But before you leap in and negotiate with your contractor over how much you’ll save if you add a little sweat equity to the project, take a deep breath and think it through. Be realistic. Your contractor may cut the cost of the project by $1,000 if you agree to do your own kitchen demolition, meaning removing all appliances, removing plumbing fixtures, and knocking down a half wall. Do you have the tools for the project? Do you know how to turn off the water main and the gas while you take out appliances? If you get the refrigerator out of the kitchen, then what? Do you have a truck to take it to the dump? And if you’re a weekend warrior swinging a sledge hammer for the first time in 25 years, what happens if you pull your back and can’t get back to your office the next day?
Cleaning up after a construction project also is likely to be a bigger and much messier task that you might imagine You’ll need a shop vacuum cleaner, for starters, and you’ll have to figure out how to dispose of a lot of leftover bits and pieces of construction materials ranging from insulation and bits of drywall to wads of duct tape. Sound fun?
If those “sweat equity” opportunities don’t sound inviting, there are others that can save you money. Most people can paint interior walls and cabinets. The risk you run by painting yourself of course is moving in without getting the painting done which will not only diminish your own pride in the remodel but is ultimately harmful to cabinets, wood work and drywall, all of which need protective coats of paint.
Other Cost Cutters
For many people, there are ways to minimize costs that don’t involve getting in overalls and wielding a paintbrush or sledgehammer. For instance, if you’re doing a kitchen or bathroom remodel, take the time to really research appliances and fixtures. Make realistic decisions about whether the $6,000 “professional” cooking range is really worth $5,000 more than a very good, less glitzy one. Do you really need the Scandinavian bathroom fixtures that look like modern sculpture and cost as much as a half a year of college tuition? Maybe. Maybe not.
The same principle applies to kitchen and other cabinets. Yes, custom cabinets are often beautiful. But you might be surprised at how good-looking and sturdy some of the ready-made cabinets are at home improvement centers. Again, you might end up saving $10,000 on kitchen cabinets by purchasing them ready made rather than having them custom built.
Finally, the best way to cut costs is work out a good plan with your contractor before the project starts, then stick to it. Change orders cost time and money. Don’t make them.
Your home sits there using energy day and night. Energy keeps you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. It provides you with light, hot water, and runs all of your appliances and home electronics.
Here's a great place where you can learn how to use the energy in your home more efficiently. The savings potential is enormous and all of the tips and tricks you'll ever need are right here in one place.
Use this information wisely. You paid for this site -- complements of your tax dollars and Uncle Sam.
By Jennifer Saranow
From The Wall Street Journal Online
Some home renovation jobs are a lot harder than they look. Here are five standard DIY projects that inexperienced renovators routinely mess up, and some tips from the pros.
The Job: LAYING BRICK PATHS
The Pitfalls: If the foundation under your pavers isn't hard and level, within six months and after enough rain, your path may look more like an old, crooked, cobble-stone street.
The Pros Say: Unless you're going for the old, crooked, cobble-stone street look, stick with spaced out, individual stones. They are a little less formal, "so you can get away with not having the foundation as straight and solid," says Brad Little, president of Case Handyman and Remodeling Services in Charlotte, N.C.
The Job: REMOVING WALLPAPER
The Pitfalls: Removing part of the drywall along with it, resulting in pitted walls that need to be repaired or even replaced.
The Pros Say: If the wallpaper was put on incorrectly in the first place, drywall holes may be unavoidable when you try to remove it, says Lou Alvarado, owner of Handy Husband in Atlanta, Ga. Try to soften the glue behind the paper first with a steamer or a wallpaper removal product such as Diff. If the paper doesn't come off easily, you're probably just asking for trouble. Leave it on and prep for painting over it instead.
The Job: REMOVING "POPCORN" CEILINGS
The Problem: Getting rid off the tacky ceiling texture, popular in the 1970s and 1980s, can be a messy, dirty, back-breaking process that results in ceiling gouges or worse--some of the stuff just won't come off.
The Pros Say: Never scrape a dry ceiling. Wet it first with a garden sprayer and then scrape with a putty knife, says Mr. Little. The texture should come off in neater clumps. And there's less risk of ceiling holes.
The Job: PATCHING DRYWALL
The Pitfalls: Inexperienced fixer-uppers routinely fill holes in sheet rock with too much joint compound and use the wrong-width knives. The result can be bumpy walls that look a lot like a rough, textured ceiling, says contractor David Wise of Mini Jobs in Atlanta.
The Pros Say: Use a six-inch knife to smooth the first coat of joint compound and eight-inch and ten-inch knives for the following two coats. For an even smoother surface, try using less compound for each application and apply four or five extra-thin coats instead of just three coats.
The Job: BUILDING A DECK
The Pitfalls: Bolting the deck right onto your roof or house frame without putting a layer of metal flashing in between. That can lead to leaks and water damage, says John Schmitt, owner of Kingston Custom Builders in Fairfax Station, Va. Also, DIY decks often wind up with frames and railings that aren't up to code or are crooked and saggy, thanks to too shallow or improper foundations.
The Pros Say: Inexperienced renovators, don't try this at home. Leave it to experienced contractors.
It's beginning to look a lot like Spring time...
One of the best ways to provide a steady water supply to your plants without your constant attention is the gradual watering system or drip irrigation. Through this method a device is employed that slowly delivers water into the soil directly around the roots. Commercial watering spikes can be purchased from you local garden center however, using recycled materials you can make your own drip irrigation system for free! Follow this Link
Is your home on the market? Are you thinking of putting your home up for sale? If so, that's GREAT! We're excited for you! Spring time is a perfect time to do a little outdoor sprucing up around your home, get rid of that winter grime! Here are a few tips for Outdoor Spring Cleaning. 
First, check your deck for any loose boards or nails that might need hammering back into place.
Then clean the tree sap off using mineral spirits. Rinse very well, then follow with an all-purpose cleaner and water. Rinse well.
To get tree sap off your PVC furniture or Vinyl, try Goof Off (or a product similar to that), or WD40. Spray the product on the stain, rub, and wash with soap and water. If any stain remains, try scrubbing with non-gel toothpaste.
To clean unlaquered brass, you can mix equal parts of salt and flour and add enough vinegar to make a paste. Spread a thick layer on the brass and let it dry, then rinse and remove. Or, dip the cut side of half a lemon in salt and rub it on, then rinse with cold water. Buff with a soft cloth, and coat with silicone car wax to keep it shiny.
You should be able to remove the rust stains from your concrete driveway by using any of the commercial rust stain removers out there. Some are Zud or Whink, and they are available at most department stores. You can also try scrubbing the area with TSP.
You should be able to remove vegetable oil stains from your wood deck by washing the stained area with mineral spirits. If that does not seem to be working, you could also try Naptha. Depending on the finish on the deck, you could also use paint thinner, but try this on a non-visible area first to ensure that it would damage the finish.
For a safe, chemical-free way to clean your cement floor, I would recommend scrubbing it with baking soda. Use a scrub brush and hot water. For stubborn stains, make a paste with baking soda and water and allow it to sit on the stains for a few hours. Once you have the stains removed, you may want to seal the concrete to prevent future staining.
If a basement is musty, if there are black, green or purple blotches on or behind the walls and ceiling tile, or if there is any kind of growth thriving under the carpets or rugs, then the home is probably living side-by-side with a colony of mold.
This is a potential health danger for any family and also a legal liability for you and your clients.
Because of the fear over mold contamination there are so many lawsuits flying around today that sales of resale homes are in jeopardy -- and insurance companies are scrambling to avoid liability, with some U.S. insurers refusing to write any new homeowner policies.
So what do you need know about mold to best serve your clients and keep yourself out of trouble?
Many people have the impression that this is a new problem -- think, "Attack of the killer molds!" -- and that we now must arm ourselves against the impending invasion. Nothing has changed, however, but the awareness of the presence of mold. Instead of fear -- we need to focus on total elimination, prevention and control. This is easy: Sunlight and ventilation are key.
Examples of common sense? Reduce indoor humidity 30 to 60 percent by venting bathrooms, dryers and other moisture-generating sources to the outside; use air conditioners and de-humidifiers; increase ventilation; use exhaust fans for cooking, dishwashing, cleaning. Also, reduce condensation on cold surfaces by adding insulation (windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, floors, etc.).
Excessive exposure can cause symptoms in anyone. Asthmatics and other people with sensitivities (such as infants and the elderly) will be particularly prone to increased asthma attacks, even with moderate exposure to molds. In particular, people with chronic obstructive pulmonary disorders should be particularly wary of molds. Be aware of their conditions and take the necessary precautions.
Most molds are black or dark green in color and the only way to determine its type is through laboratory testing. This type of mold is also known by its technical names of Stachybotrys Chartarum, or Stachybotrys atra.
In statements surrounding mold in residential construction, the Center for Disease Control (CDC) does not believe that there is not any difference between Stachybotrys and any other mold. It just so happens that since this mold may grow more commonly on building materials, it is the one that happens to be most present in most homes. It's not any more toxic than other molds and the steps taken to remediate Stachybotrys should be the same as that for any other mold presence.
If you find mold on a hard, non-porous surface, it can be cleaned with a 1:16 bleach to water solution (only after first opening a window and wearing non-porous gloves and protective eyewear) as long as the area is less than 10 ft 2 in.
If more than 10 ft 2 in needs to be cleaned, consult the EPA's guide titled, "Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings" (You can also get it free by calling the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318). If the affected material is porous, it should be removed and thrown away. If the porous material mold is extensive, you should contact professionals to gather and remove.
Lastly, NEVER and I mean NEVER mix household cleaners. Mixed chemicals can make toxic combinations.
While the information in this article is good and it's always smart to arm yourself with enough information to properly handle any situation, you are not to be mistaken as the mold expert. A professional home inspector will bear the responsibility of the mechanical, structural, and in most cases the environmental conditions of the home once they are hired by the client, releasing you from that burden. The inspector will assess the situation and put it into the proper prospective (believe it or not, I have seen a big deal made from some mold on a wall because some water was spilled from a fish tank when the home was vacated) for both you and your clients and make the call to refer it to the professionals if a "Red Flag" is discovered.
So there you have it … the nuts & bolts to mold within our homes. Further information on mold can be found on the EPA website by clicking here or at the CDC website, by clicking here.
Steve Rodriguez is the owner of Bulldog® Professional Inspection Services, a professional home inspection company in the Kansas City area.
Published: February 12, 2008
“Help Yourself to a Healthy Home” is a self-help booklet for parents and caregivers that provides information about housing-related environmental health issues, including asthma an allergies, lead, mold and moisture, carbon monoxide, indoor air quality, drinking water, hazardous household products, home safety and pesticides.
It can be found by clicking the following link http://www.uwex.edu/healthyhome/book.html
It is a great resource for all households.
Take Care!
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